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Original Goodyear Welted
Original Goodyear Welted shoes have always been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. This construction process is expensive, time consuming and requires highly skilled craftsmanship.For instance, more than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear shoes, requiring more than 120 production steps, from beginning to end.
Invented hundreds of years ago, Goodyear is still considered one of the finest method of shoe construction today. The construction get its strength, durability and repair qualities by stitching the upper leather, lining leather and welt (a specially prepared piece of leather) to the ribbing that has already been bonded to the insole. The welt is then stitched to the leather or rubber sole. It is this final stitch, holding the sole in place, which we can cut through enabling complete removal of the sole without causing damaging the upper.
Full Calf Lined Interior
These shoes are fully-lined with soft calfskin leather, which means ultimate comfort. Most companies will only partially line their shoes, but we go the extra mile because it means a more comfortable shoe and less break-in time.
What is MTO Standard Production?
Hand Painted Patina
The technique used to achieve this artwork is known as ‘Anticatura’, which is the Italian word for antique finishing. It is a specialty of Italian and French maestro shoemakers. Entrusted to the hands of the antique finisher, the upper part of the shoe becomes a work of art. The Anticatura method is a hand dyeing procedure of leather. It takes about 8-10 hours of work per pair to create a completely unique patina with an aged effect.
The Savile Shoe Last
Used on some of our most refined hand finished shoes, the Savile shoe last is the result of many rounds of refinement to create the perfect men's formal last. Featuring a soft chisel toe and a long elegant vamp, this is a great go-to last for a classic suit shoe.
Bevelled-Waist Sole & Toe-Taps
The fiddle waist Goodyear welted sole really is a special thing , this sole has a narrow, bevelled waist and comes with metal “toe-taps”.
The fiddle waist, also known as a violin waist refers to the narrow bevelled-waist aesthetic of these sole models. This is achieved by thickening the sole in it’s mid-point and gently tapering from the middle to the edges. This skilful shoe-making technique results in a beautiful bevelled waist.
This is an extremely time consuming process, as the shaping has to be precise and must match perfectly on each shoe so that one does not differ from the other. This is not easy to do, but when done well it is very much worth the effect that the detail provides for both the customer and the maker. It is a sign of pride in your craftsmanship and a sign of elegance in your shoe.
Entirely cut by hand
The Clicking Department is the first stage of production. The
highly skilled Clickers (whose name derives from the 'click'
sound made when the knife is removed from the leather) use
predetermined patterns to intricately cut the shoe's uppers and
linings. Each Clicker design and grind the blade of their knife to
their own personal taste and working preference.